Porsche 911 Long-Hood 1st Gen Buyer's Guide

On a classic car such as the Porsche 911 long-hood, the body is one of the most important aspects of the buying decision. Given the age of the cars and the production methods of the day, corrosion is a problem you meet often.

• Front wings and headlight bowls: prone to corrosion at the headlight surrounds and the lower edges. Watch for blistering (repair: several thousand euros is possible)
• A-pillars and inner closing panels: corrosion often eats its way unnoticed from the inside out. Tap these areas (cost: €1,000-€3,000 per side)
• Battery boxes: leaked acid causes massive damage (replacement: €500-€1,500)
• Sills and jacking points: structural parts. Press firmly against the sill (repair: €2,000-€6,000)
• Floor panels and seat wells: lift the carpets, and check around the pedal box in particular (welding in new metal: €1,000-€4,000)
• Rear damper turrets: structurally relevant to the suspension and at risk of corrosion
• Targa-specific: check the Targa bar, the seals and the soft rear window. Water ingress is common

The air-cooled 2.0-litre flat sixes are legendarily robust, but after more than 50 years they are not free of wear. A careful inspection is indispensable.

• Oil leaks: Seals, cam covers, oil return tubes. A little weeping is normal, but drips call for action (resealing: €300-€2,500)
• Chain tensioner: the original hydraulic units are a weak point (with the risk of engine damage). The remedy: conversion to the pressure-fed tensioners from the Carrera 3.2 (cost: around €1,500)
• Valve guides: blue smoke on start-up or on the overrun points to wear (cylinder head overhaul: €2,000-€5,000)
• Carburettors: Solex (early, often troublesome), Weber and Zenith (they have to be synchronised). Overhaul: €500-€1,500
• Heat exchangers: often rusted through. Replacement in stainless steel is recommended (cost: €1,000-€3,000)
• Crankcase: later magnesium cases can distort, or the head studs can pull out

Usually the type 901 (five speeds, first back and to the left, the so-called dog-leg pattern).

• Synchromesh rings: wear in first and second is common (a crunch on the shift). Overhaul: €1,500-€4,000
• Oil leaks: Seals at the driveshaft flanges
• Clutch: watch for judder or slipping (replacement: €800-€1,800)
• Sportomatic: a rare semi-automatic. Repairs are complex and expensive (€2,000-€7,000 and more), because parts are scarce

Decisive for the true Porsche feel. Old rubber makes the car feel vague.

• Rubber mounts and bushes: they become porous. Replacement brings the precision back (a set including fitting: €500-€1,500)
• Dampers: old dampers (Koni/Bilstein) are often ineffective (a set: €600-€1,500)
• Brakes: the callipers can seize and the lines corrode. Early cars had no brake servo: a hard pedal is normal, but the stopping power has to be there
• Steering: check for play (steering box, track rods)

Electrics: often a source of surprises on a 60-year-old car.

• Wiring loom: the insulation becomes brittle and there is a risk of a short circuit. A new loom is a big job
• Instruments: the speedometer and rev counter are often inaccurate (overhaul: €100-€500 each)

Interior: contributes substantially to holding the value.

• Seats: original coverings (houndstooth, corduroy) are valuable. Refurbishment: €800-€3,000 and more
• Dashboard: cracks from the sun are typical. Replacement or repair: €400-€1,200
• Headlining: check for discolouration or sagging

• Originality / matching numbers: do the engine and gearbox numbers agree with the car as delivered? Essential for the collector value
• History: complete documentation (the original registration document, invoices) is worth hard cash
• Imports: check US cars for modifications and corrosion (depending on the state)
• Expert advice: at prices above €100,000, a professional inspection (paint thickness measurement, borescope) is essential
• Negotiating the price: condition, originality and history have to justify the price